November 10, 2008
I’ve recently recovered from a two
week period of midterms and projects, so I apologize for not updating
sooner. So much has been happening here
recently, as well as in the States, but I will do my best to catch you up on
the last few weeks of my life in Beijing… IES is all about seeing and
experiencing China,
so a couple of weekends ago we had what IES calls the “mobile classroom.” Students had five trip options to choose from
and groups were formed on a first-come-first-serve basis. By this I mean, the minute the clock rang
12:10pm there was a
stampede of students in the IES hall way shoving their way
to the sign up sheets on the activity room door. I didn’t think it was worth getting a black
eye over, so needless to say I was placed with my last choice, Wutaishan. I didn’t mind, though, because two of my good
friends were on the same trip and I knew we would have fun wherever we went. Not to mention, IES has amazing Chinese
teachers and it is always fun to spend time with them outside of the classroom. Most of our teachers are only a few years
older than us, so they are very familiar with Western culture and provide an
interesting insight into the younger generation of Chinese.
Wutaishan is a very small, very
cold town west of China. The main attractions include the mountains
(it’s a good thing I enjoy hiking), trees (which by this time have already
turned grey and brown), and Buddhist temples as far as the eye can see. The main focus of our trip was to learn about
Buddhism in China,
so we visited several different Buddhist temples and monasteries. The thing about Buddhist temples is, most of
them are in the mountains, so in order to get there you must first climb the
mountain. Needless to say I got a great
work out that weekend.
On our first day in Wutaishan we
climbed many stone steps to a temple on the mountainside. From the out
side the temple had no
particularly distinctive characteristics to separate it from other
temples, but
once inside we discovered why this temple was so special. This temple housed a special cave which had
attracted several other Chinese tourists and Buddhist monks. As we stood in line to enter the cave we
noticed that everyone came out of the cave laughing. We were greatly confused because we couldn’t
imagine what could be so funny about a Buddhist cave. Well, finally we
reached the front of the
line and discovered why everyone was laughing.
The entrance to the cave is a small hole so in order to enter the cave
you must crawl through the hole.
Apparently coming back through the hole is supposed to symbolize your
rebirth. Honestly, when people were
being squeezed and pushed out it did kind of look like the rock was birthing
them. There were three monks in front of
us, but one of them was a little heavy.
He tried so hard and the other monks were pushing him from behind but he
just could not make it through the hole.
I was afraid he would
get stuck!
I tried (with little success) not to laugh. When my turn came I literally had to go in
hands first and wriggle my way through.
Even then I needed help getting my legs through. Once inside we found ourselves in a tiny
little room with rocks and a little shrine to Buddha. Only about four people could fit in the cave. I’m a little claustrophobic, so I escaped as
quickly as possible. Buddhism has many
rituals and practices that Westerners would consider strange, but I think even
the Chinese found this one amusing. It
was an interesting experience to say the least.
The original schedule in Wutaishan
included a lecture, an hour of meditation with the monks, a meal with th
e
monks, and an open ended discussion with a monk. The temple ended up having a special guest
from another province speaking that same day so we didn’t get our lecture or
meditation session. We did, however, get
to wake up at 4:30 in the morning to eat breakfast with the monks.
I’m not sure if this is true of all Buddhist
monks, but these monks were the fastest eaters I have ever seen. Buddhists don’t eat meat, so the meal consisted
of potatoes, porridge and bao zi (a Chinese dish similar to dumplings). Those of you who know me have probably
noticed that I am a fairly slow eater, so this meal was particularly difficult
for me. Not kidding, the monks were in
and out of the dining hall within 15 minutes.
There was no speaking involved, just eating. I’m not sure if this applies to all
Buddhists, but these monks obviously don’t place the same emphasis on eating
that Americans do. It seemed more like a
chore than an enjoyment.
The night before we had the
opportunity to interact with one of the monks and ask him questions. Before our question and answer session my
Chinese professors asked one of my
fellow classmates to give us an introduction
to Buddhism. He has been practicing Buddhism
for the past two years so he knew the background and basic principles of
Buddhism extremely well. Coming from a
white middle class Christian background I know very little about Buddhism or
any other Eastern religions for that matter.
I’ve studied Buddhism and Daoism in some of my Chinese classes, but
actually visiting a monastery and interacting with Buddhist monks has given me
a deeper understanding of its characteristics.
I won’t lie, I still don’t understand most of Buddhism’s principles and I
don’t think I ever will. My beliefs are
very different from that of Buddhism, but even though I have no desire to
practice Buddhism I think it’s important for anyone living in a foreign country
to familiarize themselves with local beliefs and customs. Buddhism has such a large influence in
Chinese culture and in order to understand a culture’s practices and
characteristics you must understand the source from which they derive.
We took the overnight train from
Wutaishan back to Beijing,
arrived at Bei Wai around 9am and started class at 10am. The next day we had a 400 character essay due
about our weekend trips. Then on Friday
we had to give a 15 minute powerpoint presentation (in Chinese of course) about
our
trip. The next
week I had two
midterms and a video to complete. IES
keeps us busy, but I refuse to let that prevent me from seeing and experiencing
Beijing. That Saturday I went with my history class to
visit the Forbidden City. My history professor does some of his
research at the Forbidden City so he is very
familiar with the layout. It was very
exciting to tour the Forbidden City with
someone so knowledgeable about Chinese history.
Our professor pointed out several interesting details of the emperor’s
life inside the walls of the Forbidden City, for example, out of all the
9,999.5 rooms (apparently in China it’s possible to have half a room) there are
no bathrooms or dinning rooms. If the
emperor had to go to the bathroom his servants would just bring him a chamber
pot, and when he was ready to eat they would just bring a table and set up his
feast wherever he happened to be at the time.
The Forbidden City covers an immense
amount of space, so we only saw a small portion in the few hours that we
visited, but it’s always so amazing to see a place after reading and studying
about it. Personally experiencing a
place always gives such a clearer understanding of it. One of the greatest advantages of studying
abroad is having the opportunity to experience for yourself another culture and
environment. I think learning about China’s history and China’s culture has given me such a
deeper understanding of my own culture and background. I know I still have a long way to go, so I’m
going to do my best to see and experience as much as I can in this last month.