
Buenas tardes! Its been about two weeks so another update is definitely necessary! So much happens in two weeks here...its crazy! So its going to be long (again, I know) but just pick the sections you want to read about!
Fun Sayings I´ve Learned (complete with translation!):
"El diablo no puede estar en todos partes siempre, y por eso creó las suegras!" -"The devil can´t be everywhere all the time, and so he created mother-in-laws!" (My host mom´s personal favorite)
"Bolivia is the heart of South America and Cochabamba is the heart of Bolivia. Thus, Cochabamba is the heart of South America!"
"Hazme caso!" -"Obey me!" (Most often heard in parks when mothers are trying to get their kids to leave, haha)
Coca:
The US makes a big deal about this with the "drug trafficking" talk, but Coca here is part of the culture! There is nothing better for your stomach than coca tea, and nothing better for altitude sickness than chewing on some leaves for awhile! As much as they try to eradicate it, I don´t think it will ever happen. The coca leaf is WAY too sacred down here, and WAY too much a part of their culture to ever go away!
Music:
Music is also a big part of the culture. There is always music playing in my house, and my family is really good about explaining to me the different types of music. The sampoya (more or less a pan flute) is really popular here and my host sister is going to teach me how to play!
Tiwanaku:
This is a city with some ancient Incan ruins. I won´t bore you too much with all the educational bits and pieces, but it was really fun. We saw the "puerta del sol", some huge monoliths, and ancient ritual spots. It was also beautiful scenery (as usual here). There were wildflowers growing everywhere, the mountains were gorgeous, there was a small river...just really pretty!
Lake Titicaca:
This by FAR was my favorite place we have been so far! It is one of the most beautiful places on this earth (not that I´ve been that many places)....I´m convinced! We woke up REALLY early the second morning to go to the Isla del Sol. Ironically, it was freezing cold and raining, which made the 2 and a half hour boat ride less than fun. But we played games for a good bit of the time so that made it better. When we got there, we pulled into this empty cove and hiked up to some more ruins. It was still raining and cold, but sitll beautiful beyond words! We debated on hiking the rest of the way to town, but I´m so glad we decided to in the end. It was about an hour and a half hike through the isla del sol. We passed waterfalls, coves, smalls pueblos, people walking cows and sheep, lots of random things! When we got to the other side we had to wait awhile for lunch and so I played soccer with a couple of little boys (yeah, they were really little so it didn´t matter that I had no idea what I was doing). We also watched a local soccer match which was cool. They were all playing in sandals though, which didn´t look too comfortable! The boat ride back wasn´t QUITE as fun as many people got SUPER sick. I was fortunate enough to be ok! The rest of the time was spent doing your usual "touristy" stuff...but it was still really fun!
La Paz:
So this wasn´t my favorite city...by any means...but we didn´t get to do a lot of really cool things when we got there! The first day we went to the World Bank and got to talk to one of the top economists there. My small group actually got to interview him and another man later that week, which was really cool. I´m actually still really amazed at the caliber of people who are willing to talk to us and help us one on one. We have had some amazing opportunities through this program! The next day we went to the Coca Museum and the Contemporary Art Museum. Later that afternoon we met and talked to Mamani Mamani, who is a very famous artist...if you don´t know his stuff, you should! It was cool to hear where the inspiration for all of his art came from. He is indigenous and all of his art has indigenous symbols or meanings behind it. That night we talked with "Mujeres Creando," the only formal feminist group in Bolivia (supposively). They are known for their grafiti around the city, characterized by black cursive with pink behind it. The next day we visited El Alto...a very poor city right outside of La Paz. (Also a very high city, and the altitude definitely got to me a little there.) It was really surreal to see the poverty there. It is more or less a migrant city. We talked to some "yatiris" who are more or less fortune tellers. There are HUNDREDS of them, lined up in what looks like storage units down the streets. Some of the read coca leaves, some of them palms...but they make a good deal of money because so many people come to see them. We also talked to some people from UPEA, the public university there. They are super activists, and it was cool to hear about their role during the water wars. The next day we heard from a guy about the Andean cosmovision. It was actually really cool, and I learned a lot about how many of the indigenous people here think about the world. Fun stuff? We went salsa dancing one night! Very good time....other than that, we slept because we were all pretty wiped out!
Another crazy thing in La Paz? The boys, and sometimes men, who shine shoes wear black ski masks on their faces because they are ashamed and don´t want anyone to know who they are. It was scary at first until somebody explained to me why they do it...and then it was just really sad.
Evo:
So, when I first got here, I thought everyone would talk about how much they love Evo. However, its actually quite the opposite. In general, people are pretty disappointed in what he has done in office. They think he has made Bolivia look bad to the rest of the world, and that he has only made things worse within the country. Even people who voted for him are disappointed. They say he had so much potential, and just hasn´t used it!
Mala Situación:
Everyone here keeps talking about the "mala situación social" ("bad social situation") here. I didn´t really notice at first...probably just from the surrealness of being here...but I am definitely seeing more and more of it. There are strikes or "huelgas de hambre" all the time. For example, right now in Cochabamba the police are on strike for a 25% pay raise. They are all over the streets, and its weird because you see police officers on strike and the army trying to control them...who would have thought? The two main forces of protection here fighting against each other. It´s an odd scene to look at.
It´s also weird to go to the grocery store and have an officer with a machine gun around his neck take your purse. You´re not allowed to take your purse inside because people steal all the time. Not so fun to get called out by the guy with the gun...haha. We did get a good laugh out of it later though!
The hospital is another interesting thing. You don´t make appointments here. You stand in line as long as it takes to get in....which usually means all day! My host mom has diabetes and when she went to the hospital the other day she left at 8 and didn´t get back til 5!! I will never complain again about having to wait in a doctor´s office after my designated appointment time!
A woman from the US who has worked here for 17 years came to talk to us the other day and told us this story about how many lynchings happen here. One time she came home from work, and saw her five year old daughter tied up to a tree with the other kids teasing her and poking at her. She said she got really upset and went over to stop it, but her daughter responded "Oh mommy, we´re just playing the lynching game!" They had seen so many lynching cases on the news that it was a game to them!
When I was in the plaza the other day, there were people tied up to trees in crucifix position because they were on strike. There were lots of different reasons...but talk about a shock! I didn´t like that so much, haha.
Some quick facts about Bolivia:
National Population:7.9 million
Infant Mortality Rate: 64/1000 births
Access to safe water: 59%
Living below the poverty line:70%
I´m so glad I came here! I am learning so much more than I ever thought I would. As crazy as some of this stuff is that´s going on, it is a beautiful country with beautiful people and I wouldn´t change this experience for anything. I have definitely realized that I take a lot of things for granted, and will appreciate them much much more when I get back!
I think this is all for now. We made chocolate chip cookies last night, and my family LOVED them! They don´t really make things with chocolate a lot so I was excited to show them this whole new world of opportunity for desserts! haha. Tonight I am going to my director´s house for his birthday, which should also be fun!
Hope everything is going well! Miss you all muchísimo!
Kristen