Hola amigos! We have done a LOT in the short three and a half weeks we´ve been here, and I think I have stuffed more info into my brain than I ever have!
Travel:
We travel about half the time in this program, which is awesome because Bolivia is so diverse that it is necessary to travel everywhere in order to completely understand the ins and outs of everything in this country! We have already been to Oruro, Tarata, Potosi, and Sucre, and will be going to Tiwanaku, Copacabana, La Paz, a rural village stay (we all have different spots so we don´t know where yet), Tarija, Santa Cruz, and somewhere else that I can´t remember. This will all take place within two and a half months so you can imagine how busy we´ve been!
Workload:
I have a lot of schoolwork to do, but its so good because I have learned so much. We have class (when we are in town) from 9-12:30 and 2:45-6:30 everyday. In the morning it is a Culture and Development class or a field study seminar. In the afternoons we have grammar classes, which have been awesome. I have a great spanish teacher, Chi Chi, who is so amazing. I have learned so much from her, and my spanish has improved a BAZILLION times! It of course helps to be able to practice 24/7!
Food:
I know, I know...I wrote about this last time, but its a HUGE part of the culture here. Just thought I´d tell you guys about the weird things I have eaten (and some of it thrown up). First, corn is really big here and we had corn juice at lunch the other day. I don´t really recommend it, but my host family loves it...and I made the mistake of saying "sí, me gusta" in order to be polite the first time...we now drink it alot. Weird meats: pigs feet and ears (threw up...I could not get the thought of the live pig out of my head...they were also cold), coneja (look it up....fortunately I only had to taste this because it had its ears, teeth, body, everything still there!), and llama! I actually really really liked the llama...it was finally a meat without a ton of fat on it!
Tarata:
We had a rural drop off in this village. Me and my partner, Suma, got very lost in the mountains after we had found our original location. What we thought would take 10 mins ended up taking an hour and 10 mins to make it to the lunch location. It was, however, a great hike with beautiful scenery (as always).
Potosi:
This was probably one of the coolest and most educational trips. Potosi is the highest city in the world (no worries, I wasn´t super bothered by the altitude aside from the occasional headache), and was at one point in time also the richest city in the world. Now, its one of the poorest mining towns ever, and is quickly depleting in resources. Over 8 million people have died there, 2500 kids work there (in conditions which I will explain), and there is not much money to be made. It is more or less the only type of work to be found in this town. People who work in the mines basically have a death sentence between 35-45 due to sillacosis. We actually got to go down into the mines, which was one of the scariest things ever. We went down five levels, but there are fifteen in Cerro Rico (the mine we entered). The first time he pointed to the tiny whole we were going to climb down to make it to the next level, I thought he was joking. (I actually laughed out loud...not an intelligent decision) We also had to climb out...someone pointed out that it was "a lot like caving, except more educational". I honestly have no idea how people work in conditions like that all day long...sometimes on 24 hour shifts. They eat coca leaves to get rid of the hunger pains and headaches and for energy. We actually brought the miners gifts of coca leaves and dynamite (I definitely gave some dynamite! way more fun...). It is also interesting what they believe in down there. They believe that outside the mine God is in control, but inside the mine is the world of the Tio ("tee-owe")(or devil). They have statues of "tios" on each level with offerings in order to keep them safe. They also have blood stains on the entrance of the mine where they offer llama blood every few months.
Attn Spanish Professors: "The Devil´s Miner" is an awesome documentary that you would love...great for classes!
Sucre:
Wow, sorry that last one was so long...just a very interesting place! Sucre was much more Europeanized...I actually didn´t even feel much like I was in Bolivia anymore...especially after just leaving Potosi. Sucre is the home of the Constitutional Assembly, but they had just finished meeting so we didn´t get to see much with that. We visited lots of museums, had ice cream in the plaza, and I bought a really cool painting that will go awesome in the (hopefully) apartment next year!
Adjustment:
I am definitely adjusting very well. My host family is awesome, which makes a big difference. I am starting to get used to the pace of things down here, slowly but surely...and the constant spanish is no longer a source of headache. The spanish has definitely taken over aside from the other day. We were at a cafe, everyone had ordered (in spanish), and when she came to me I started talking to her in english...I didn´t even realize it til everyone started laughing! You win some, you lose some I guess. I have found an awesome church here, where I have met some awesome Bolivian friends my age! The people in my program are also really nice...we are all so different, with so many different backgrounds, and it makes for a great group dynamic.
Interesting Situations:
I´m not exactly sure how I´m going to get to class on Monday. The micro (which I usually take) will not be there as the drivers are on strike. There is also no gas right now due to a problem in the Chapare, and taxis are scarce...hopefully there will be gas again by Monday...otherwise I may be walking a very long way to the center of town! There is also a big deal here right now about the US embassy. A fulbright scholar has come out and said that the embassy asked them to report any cubans or venezuelans they come into contact with...since then, many peace corps members in bolivia (who already don´t have a great rep here due to past grievances) have come out and said the same thing. Its been all over the local news, and will be interesting to see how Bolivians view any "gringo" in the country. No worries though, nothing bad has happened and it should be fine!!
Other than that, driving through the mountains is like driving through a postcard, and any city is like stepping into a documentary. It really is beautiful here! I miss you all very much and can´t wait to hear from you all soon! If I haven´t responded to your email, I promise I will...it just takes me awhile!
un besito,
Kristen