Michael Vaughn - Kampala, Uganda - Development Studies at Makerere University
I have lots of stories for you guys. Plus, can we start using headings like the one I've used here? This blog is sort of confusing.
Family/Home
I have moved in with my host family. My parents are Sarah and Elly Senoga. I have 3 host brothers called Richard, Brian, and Aaron (21, 20, and 11 respectively). Richard and Brian study at Makerere University (where I am also taking classes) although Richard lives on campus. We also have an aunt, Justine, who lives with us, along with her daughter Shamin. All these are in addition to our houseboy and housegirl (servants) who are called Entegge and Molly. It makes for a pretty large household but the family is very tight-knit. I share a room with Brian.
My mom is a nurse and my dad is a businessman. I'd say our family is fairly representative of the (albeit small) Ugandan middle class. Our house is fairly large although the electricity goes off at least three days a week and we have no indoor plumbing. We do have running water but our bathroom consists of a shower room (as in bucket showers) and a pit latrine. I really am not a fan of pit latrines, it turns out. However, my family makes up for these shortcomings with their hospitality and by feeding me massive quantities of food.
I got sick this week and my mom took awesome care of me with lots of traditional and modern healthcare techniques. I am the only person I know who could come to equatorial Africa and manage to get a cold. However, it was not malaria, so for that I am grateful.
My family is of the Buganda tribe. The Buganda dominate most of Uganda and are the most prevalent in the southern and central parts of Uganda. Their language is Luganda and that is what I am learning in classes. The Buganda tribe consists of 56 clans. The members of clans must marry outside their own clans and lineage is patriarchal. My mother is Buffalo clan and my father (as well as the rest of the family) is Mfumbe. The elders of the clan assign names to all members reflecting Buganda heritage as well as a personality trait. They have assigned the name Walusimbe to me; this approximately means "will be rich." I was somewhat insulted when I got it (I thought it was a reflection of my muzungu/white person status) but they normally give names reflecting future success.
University
I am studying development studies while I am here at Makerere University. Makerere is a very large school and classes have been awesome. We have had some amazing speakers come so far including an official from the Ministry of Health and the leader of the opposition in the Ugandan parliament. We have also gotten to go on some awesome excursions to visit nonprofit organizations around Kampala including the Single Parents Association of Uganda, Mwanumugimu (a children's malnutrition center), and others. We have also gotten to visit cultural sites like the National Museum of Uganda and the Kasubi tombs where Buganda royalty are buried (also the location of the world's largest thatched hut, which was pretty cool). We are heading to Mbarara (western Uganda) and Rwanda next week. We will get to see the capital of Rwanda, Kigali, as well as all the major genocide memorial sites. I am very excited about this. Classes are very long - 2 hours of Luganda in the morning, an hour and a half of a guest lecturer, and then another 2 hours of lecture. I usually get home from school around 5-7 p.m.
Kampala
So my feelings of safety were a little sturdier than they should've been - I've had a few people attempt (unsuccessfully) to pickpocket me. However, it's nothing that you wouldn't encounter in an American city of Kampala's size. It rains nearly every day lately which Ugandans attribute to global warming (the rainy season is supposed to be in May and essentially didn't happen this year, choosing to happen now instead). There was a riot at the taxi park that I use over the government's decision to sell off a market surrounding the park to a private investor, pushing out all the longtime vendors that had previously operated businesses there. This riot went on for 2-3 days with the roads blocked off, lots of people teargassed, and lots of military/police involvement. The government seems to be backing down on this and a "ceasefire" was declared yesterday.
Government
The government in Uganda is monumentally corrupt. President Museveni is widely regarded to have stolen the last election and there are widespread allegations of misuse of foreign aid and other funds at all levels of government.
One of the biggest issues facing Uganda right now is the advent of CHOGM in November. CHOGM (Commonwealth Heads of Government) is a bi-yearly meeting of heads of state of all former UK colonies and protectorates. Uganda is one of those nations and Kampala was chosen as the site for the 2007 CHOGM meeting. The government is cleaning up as much of the city as possible to prepare for the arrival of Queen Elizabeth and the other heads of state. In the process, they are harassing, displacing, and imprisoning the city's homeless and street vendors. 40% of the 2007 governmental budget is being spent on CHOGM preparations and there is a huge media drive to brainwash people into "embracing CHOGM" and convince them to forget the insanity of this spending. The government is advocating for emphasis on CHOGM using the theory that it will bring in short-term economic gain and attention to Ugandan plights. However, with the way the government is curtaining the poverty and problems in this country, an increase in foreign aid cannot be expected; the heads of state and the Queen herself will see a sanitized Uganda that is in no way representative of this country. The economic influx will also be shortlived - CHOGM is here for only three days.
Peers
I have had a great time getting to know my classmates. We have gone out together on several occasions and had an amazing time. There are people from all walks of life and they are all very smart and dedicated. A lot of us have been struck down by stomach illnesses but as a whole we're faring fairly well.
General
I miss: my family, my friends back home, cheese (Ugandans don't eat it), broadband Internet, my cell phone, and WOFFORD.
I love: the climate, the fact that I see monkeys on a regular basis, Tusker's (come to Africa and find out), surprising Ugandans by speaking Luganda, teaching my little brother to read, my mom's skepticism of American clothing, and the future of this country.
I was able to go to the Uganda v. Niger soccer match last weekend. We got bumped up to VIP because of a connection our friend had and sat behind a very famous Ugandan girl group. Uganda dominated and we were a big hit in our Uganda Cranes jerseys. It was like being a celebrity.. seriously. We were on the news that night and one of our group was in the newspaper.
I got my head shaven and I have a beard.. really.