Back in the US

I got back to the US twelve days ago. Whenever I see someone for the first time since I’ve been back, they ask about my trip. For a few reasons, it’s hard to know exactly what to say to sum up the experience. Similarly, in writing this blog, I’m asked to reflect on how my time abroad impacted me, both in terms of my remaining time at Wofford and after graduation.

As I’ve said before in this blog, this past semester was my last at Wofford. So rather than influencing my remaining undergraduate career, my time abroad served as more of a capstone on the experience, especially for my French major, and I really did have the chance to greatly improve my French skills.

In terms of my life after graduation, I am glad that I went abroad. On one hand, I have always been a more independent person, but going abroad allowed me to prove that to myself. On the other hand, I am not a person who adapts well to changes. I like to know what’s coming. Last semester, so many unexpected things happened. Being in a foreign country and feeling unfamiliar with everything definitely was an experience that allowed me to grow a lot. This is a skill that I will definitely use in my life in the future. 

My time abroad also forced me to be open to new things and learn about a new culture. Though French and American cultural are similar in many ways, there are some significant differences, and living in a culture different from my own has helped me not only be less judgmental, but also to look at my own culture through a more critical lens.

Though it is difficult for me at the moment to understand exactly how my experience will impact me, I know that the memories I have of traveling, meeting new people, speaking French, and seeing amazing places will stay with me forever, and I’m grateful for that. 

My program director got us pastries to celebrate graduation!
Canoeing in Saint-Gregoire during the lockdown
Picnic at the Pointe du Grouin
I loved seeing the wisteria growing in Rennes.

French can be Hard: Language Barrier Situations and Common Words

My most memorable language barrier situation took place in a Subway, just a week after my arrival to France. Subway might seem like an odd choice given all the amazing food available in France, but on this day, I had chosen to go there after having seen a poster that said (or so I thought), that subs cost only one euro. It seemed like a good deal, and I was hungry, so I thought to myself, “why not.” Ordering the sub was a challenge given that Subway has customers go down the line and indicate every ingredient that they want. I ended up having to reference ingredients with names such as, “the orange cheese,” because I wasn’t sure of their actual French names. However, the real challenge presented itself when I got to the cash register and realized that the sub sandwich was going to cost more than one euro. I tried to ask the cashier, in the best way I knew how, about the poster I had seen outside, and she started talking very quickly in French. Typically, I do not have a probably understanding when people in shops or restaurants when they speak French. But this was just after my arrival and this woman was speaking in warp speed. Confused, I paid for my sandwich and walked outside to eat it. It was then that I looked back at the poster and realized that, far from one euro sandwiches, the restaurant had been featuring a promotion for one euro off! In that moment, I felt so dumb! 

Another time, I was in a coffee shop with my friend. I wanted to indicate to the cashier that we would be paying separately, so I said, “nous sommes séparées.” I had already been to this coffee shop several times, and the barista knew me. He laughed and said, “the way you said that, it’s like you’re a couple who’s getting a divorce. We say, ‘nous allons payer séparément.’” I learned something that day, and I haven’t made the same mistake since! 

When I first got to Rennes, I remarked that I heard two words/phrases quite often — “truc” and “du coup.” Since prior to this experience I had learned French in a largely academic context, I was not at all familiar with these casual words. For any future students in Rennes, here’s something to know— “truc” is vague word that essentially just means “thing,” and the people here love to use it. “Du coup” means something like “so” or “consequently.” It’s another phrase that I hear very often, and it often has no particular meaning and serves more as a filler, kind of like how, in English, we use the word “so” to take a pause while we’re thinking. Removing “du coup” from a sentence wouldn’t change its meaning very much, but throwing it into your vocabulary in everyday speech is a good way to sound more casual and more like the native speakers. 

One of my biggest goals in going abroad was to improve my language skills, and it was really the more casual, everyday type of interactions that helped me do so. Even when  I did make (sometimes embarrassing) mistakes, people were usually nice about it, and it gave me a chance to learn and improve— I’ll never imply that I’m getting a divorce at a coffee shop again!

Views of Fort de la Latte during a recent excursion to Cap Fréhil on the coast of Brittany. This location was one of the most beautiful that I have seen during my time here. I didn’t see any, but apparently penguins live here, too!
Taking a walk on the old walls surrounding the beaches at Dinard. The water was freezing, but people were still swimming!
Views of the moat from a recent excursion to the Château de Fougères. I’ll never get over the fact that France has actual medieval castles– it seems like something out of a fairy tale.

Meeting People as a Foreigner

During my time in France, I have had the opportunity to meet people from all over the world. Although my program is typically for American students, the classes held at the foreign language center at the university are offered to students from all over the world. As a result, I’ve been able to get to know not only other Americans, but also people from Columbia, Iran, Italy, and many more countries. 

Views of old Rennes

At the beginning of the semester, I imagined that it would be difficult to meet local people and other students outside of my program, especially given that classes were all being held on Zoom. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that that was not the case.

So, how did I meet people? If you know me, you know that I am not an extroverted person— at all. I knew that in going abroad, I would have to push myself a little bit to be more open if I wanted to form friendships with people I met here. At the beginning of the semester, I actually met some people through Zoom breakout rooms. Whenever we finished the work we were given, we would chat and sometimes exchange WhatsApps. This is how I initially met several people with whom I’m now friends. Outside of that, I met people through the journalism club I participate in at the university as well as through my French speaking club that I attend on Tuesday evenings. 

My program offers many events for students, so there is ample time to get to know each other. On Tuesday, for example, we went canoeing on canals of Saint-Grégoire. At the university, there are typically more opportunities, but because of Covid they are very limited. Instead of attending organized events, I’ve spent some time with people outside of my program having picnics or going to parks. Everyone is getting tired of online classes and being in front of a screen, so they’re typically happy to get outside and do something! It’s also fun, and sometimes funny, to talk about the differences in cultures between our home countries and the stereotypes we might have for one another. 

Canoeing on the canals at Saint-Grégoire

Being a foreigner can often come with feelings of exclusion. Just a few days ago, I was talking with an American friend from my program about our experiences with the people here. I remarked that one thing about the people I’ve met at Cirefe (the center where we take classes) is that they’re very inclusive. People are always willing to invite me and other students to do things, even when they barely know me. This has been especially true of the foreign students. Upon further reflection, I feel that this openness is at least in part a fact of our shared experiences as foreigners. Faced with a certain sense of exclusion, many of the students at Cirefe have banded together to form communities of their own. 

Eating beignets by one of the canals downtown

Overall, I have been able to make friends and meet people here because I forced myself to be open to it. I’m so grateful that I did, because I’ve met people with whom I hope to be in contact for a long time who I certainly never would have known otherwise. 

Petting goats at a park I went to with some students from Cirefe.

Handling Stress and Study Abroad

Studying abroad was a dream I had for a long time, and I feel so fortunate to have been able to make that happen despite the difficult circumstances surrounding the pandemic. I am someone for whom change and uncertainty has always been especially stressful, and I knew that I would face this challenge while studying abroad. These expected changes coupled with the constant uncertainty surrounding coronavirus have made this albeit rewarding experience one of the most stressful times of my life. Having said that, I have found some ways to destress that have helped me greatly. 

1. Taking Walks and Spending time Outside

One of the great things about Rennes is its many parks! I have been enjoying these parks ever since my arrival. Right now, parks are especially enjoyable because France is in a partial lockdown and many things are closed. Despite that, parks are open, and I have been visiting different parks when I have some free time. Taking walks and spending time in nature has been good for my physical and mental health. Because of all the walking, I’ve actually been more physically active here than I sometimes was at home! Plus, spending time in nature always helps me feel calm and at peace. 

2. Talking to Family and Friends Back Home 

For me, it’s very important to keep in regular contact with my family and friends back home. A Facetime call with a friend helps take my mind off of stressful situations and reminds me of things I have to look forward to next month when I’m back home! It also helps me maintain a sense of community. On Sundays, my family often gets together to eat lunch. Sometimes, I call them when it’s their lunchtime and walk with them for a while. Just yesterday, I facetimed my friend and we played a game together over the internet. It’s little things like this that help me stay connected to everyone back home and remind me that there is a world outside of Rennes to which I will soon be going back.

3. Listening to Music and Podcasts 

I have always found this to be an excellent way to deal with stress (not just during study abroad!) Many studies have shown that listening to music helps reduce stress, and I have found this to be true for me. Personally, I also enjoy listening to podcasts. A lot of the podcasts I listen to are funny, and I can always count on them to make me laugh! 

4. Keeping Things in Perspective 

Especially during Covid, studying abroad can be chaotic. There are times when I feel very overwhelmed by everything that is going on in my life, whether that be exams, new covid restrictions, or adjusting to a new schedule. It always helps to put things in perspective. I have to remind myself that it’s okay to feel stressed at times and that it’s only temporary. 

Keeping a journal is another way to destress that I have found helpful at times.
A walk in one of Rennes’ beautiful parks is always relaxing and also lets me get some exercise!
Since travel isn’t currently possible, exploring the city and seeing local sights as been a great way to relax and have fun!

Academics in France

Before coming to France and during the orientation that took place during my first week here, my program directors emphasized the possible differences between French and American academic culture. Though they explained that this was not always the case, French professors often maintain a high level of distance with students, are strict, discourage participation and read grades out loud. I was nervous to start my classes because of having heard all this. However, once classes got going, I realized that, at least for me, this was largely untrue. Yes, there are differences. However, some of them are less pronounced than I originally expected. 

My classes are at the French as a foreign language center (CIREFE), so I can’t speak on what university classes with other French students are like. This semester, all of my classes except for one are online. My classes tend to have more people in them than my classes at Wofford. But, they are similar in many ways. Most of my professors encourage participation and ask lots of questions in class. They types of subjects that we discuss are similar to the topics addressed in my French classes at Wofford. There are, however, some significant differences. Professors at CIREFE typically do not get to know students. At Wofford, forming relationships with professors in your department is common. At my university in France, that doesn’t really happen. Professors are generally nice, but they stick to discussing class material. Another major difference is the workload. My workload here is much, much lower. Professors typically give a weekly homework assignment, if that, and exams take place twice a semester, as opposed to the continuous assessment method that is typical of classes at Wofford. It may be surprising, but this has actually been the hardest part of the experience for me academically. I’m accustomed to completing a large amount of assignments, papers, and homework outside of class and getting feedback on my work. At first, the prospect of having less work seemed great, but then I realized that having feedback and being graded largely on only two big exams was extremely stressful. It’s manageable, but it’s definitely not something that I will miss about the academic culture here!

Another thing that struck me about my classes here was that some of my classmates didn’t seem to care at all. At Wofford, most people tended to be interested and engaged in class. At first, I did not understand why this was. Of course, some students were engaged just like I expected, but others were markedly not so. It wasn’t until a discussion with one of my friends from class that I realized why this was. Save for a difference in motivation that is present in any academic environment, much of this is due to the fact that some of the students at CIREFE come from vastly different life circumstances than I do. Some of them are refugees, parents, or in other positions where they have concerns that come before classwork. Thinking about this helped put things in perspective for me. 

This is my last semester of undergrad, but during my time at Wofford I double majored in Sociology/Anthropology and French. I finished up my Sociology/Anthropology major last Fall, and now I’m focusing on finishing my French major. My study abroad hasn’t been without challenges, especially during these Covid times, but it has been an excellent capstone to my time as a French major. I’ve been able to hone my French skills in a way that I was not able to do without an experience of immersion. Even though I’m not taking sociology or anthropology courses here, my time in the department at Wofford has actually allowed me to be more observant and open to the culture and customs that I experience here in France, and that outlook has been invaluable to me.

Overall, I prefer the academic culture in America. Part of the reason I chose Wofford was for the advantages that a small, community-oriented college provides, and I can’t say that I do not miss that culture here in France. However, being exposed to this new way of doing things has been a learning experience and for that I am thankful. 

A musical protest in downtown Rennes.
Spring is finally here! These are the new spring flowers in the Parc du Thabor.
Views of Mont Saint Michel from the excursion I took with my program there several days ago. This was definitely one of the best trips I have taken!

My Favorite Places in Rennes

I have been in France for over two months now, so I’ve really gotten to know the city of Rennes. Rennes is a smaller city, so while it was never difficult to navigate, I’ve gotten to the point where it’s almost easy to forget that I’m in a foreign country just because it has become so familiar. Now that I’m well-acquainted with the city of Rennes, I want to list a few of my favorite places. 

Cafés 

I have two favorite cafés in Rennes. Unfortunately, restaurants are closed for dine-in service at the moment. Still, I am able to get takeout and, of course, coffee. Before I came to France, I was excited to try out different cafés, and they did not disappoint. 

My favorite local café is Mokka Coffee House. As the sname suggests, Mokka primarily serves coffee, although they sell viennoiseries, or sweet baked goods, also. I like the mochas and the pain au chocolat at Mokka, and I also like the people who work there. One of the first times I went there, the barista recognized my accent and asked where I was from. Now, whenever I go there, they recognize me and we talk for a few minutes. Mokka is open on Sunday, which is a rarity, so it’s a great place to go on a sunny Sunday afternoon when there’s not much to do. 

My other favorite café is Columbus. Columbus is actually a chain. They have lots of locations in France, in other European countries, and even a few in Africa and the Middle East. Coming to France, Columbus was new to me. Columbus has a wide variety of coffees, teas, and other drinks, but also has fresh sandwiches and muffins. It’s definitely one of my favorite places to go to grab a quick meal, and I especially like their menu étudiant. They also always play loud American music which creates a fun atmosphere. 

Espresso from Columbus Café

Bakery 

Le Fournil Vasselot is my favorite bakery in Rennes. It’s very popular, but quite small, so it’s typically necessary to wait in a line outside for a few minutes before entering. However, it is worth the wait! This bakery offers so many French pastries. The first time I went there, I was amazed by everything I saw. There’s so much variety that I feel like every time I go, I see something that I never knew even existed. 

Pastries at Le Fournil Vasselot

Park

One of the things that I appreciate about France is its parks. Public parks are common, and they’re filled with beautiful streams, hedges, sculptures, and fountains. The Parc du Thabor is a large and well-known park in the city center. My favorite experience in this garden was going right after it snowed. However, any day in the Parc du Thabor is sure to be a good experience. There are so many things to see— there are shrubs trimmed into the shapes of birds, statues, a botanical garden, and more. Anyone who visits Rennes has to see the Parc du Thabor. 

Snow day at the Parc du Thabor

General Sight 

Though the interior is currently closed, the Parlement of Brittany is a well-known building in downtown. People often sit on its steps to eat lunch or just catch up with friends, and in front of the building there is a large public area with benches. I enjoy going here to eat lunch or just sit for a while. It’s a great place to people-watch, and the old architecture of the parliament building makes me feel like I’m really in Europe. 

A view of the Parliament of Brittany from the seating area that faces it

A Monday in Rennes

It’s 8:00 am and I wake up and get ready for the day. I make myself coffee and sit down for my first class at 8:30. My first class is Contemporary Art History, and it’s on Zoom. In class, we learn about an artistic movement called Nouveau Réalisme, which is basically the French version of Pop Art. I enjoy this class because we get to see lots of examples of different art. Something that I liked about the program I chose is that I would get to take classes in a variety of different subjects, and I took advantage of that by taking Contemporary Art History, which is a subject I knew nothing about prior to taking this class. 

At 10:30, my class ends. I have about half an hour of free time before I head to the bus stop. Every Monday, my French language class is in-person. It’s my only in-person class of the semester. The walk from my apartment to the bus stop is short, only four minutes, and I wait for the bus. Commuting to class is actually not new for me; I was a commuter at Wofford, so I was accustomed to that. However, taking public transportation is very new. I’m a little ashamed to say that before coming to Rennes, I could count on one hand the number of times I had used public transportation. However, the public transportation here is very easy to use and to understand. The bus arrives. I swipe my metro card and sit down. I live in an apartment in a neighborhood just outside of the main part of the city, so the bus ride to the university is only about ten minutes. On the way there, I look out the window. 

Once at the university, I walk to CIREFE, the center where I take my classes. CIREFE is the center at the University of Rennes 2 that is designated especially for people who are learning French as a second language. It has its own building on the university campus. All my classes are in French, but the professors know that French is not out first language, so the classes are designed with that in mind. In my French language class, we study verb tense agreement. At 12:45, class ends. I chat with some of my classmates in the hallway. Something interesting about CIREFE is that I have classes with all different kinds of people, not just traditional 18-22 year old college students like I did at Wofford. Some of my classmates are my age, but others are older. Some are professionals, parents, or even asylum seekers. They’re also all from different countries. In my cohort at the university, me and the other student in my program are the only two Americans. It’s interesting to get to interact with people from such different backgrounds and from so many different countries. At Wofford, I did not have this experience to the same extent. 

Then, it’s time for lunch. For lunch, I either go to a café downtown or grab lunch to-go at the university cafeteria. The cafeteria food is much better in France than at home (sorry, Burwell), but today I go downtown with a friend from my program. (One thing I really appreciate about the French university system is that things tend to be much less expensive. Due to covid, the French government actually reduced the student lunch price to 1 euro). We take the metro to the café downtown, and the ride only takes about five minutes. I get a sandwich and a muffin for lunch. 

After lunch, we head back to the library and do some homework. After that, I take the bus back and decide to go for a walk. My apartment has a park right behind it with lots of walking paths, so I like taking walks when the weather is nice. 

After my walk, I head back to my apartment and make dinner. France has a 6pm national curfew, so I always have to be sure to be back by then. When I’m out in the evening, I have to be sure to get a bus or metro that will give me time to make it back before the curfew. That’s an experience about France that I will not miss! I’m hoping that it gets lifted soon. 

In the evening, I talk to my friends and family at home, do any homework that I have left, and watch Netflix. There are only two students in my program this semester because enrollment was so low due to covid, but my friend from my program lives two apartments down from me, so often, she will either come to my apartment for a bit or I will go to hers. 

Obviously, this is not what everyday is like for me. But, this is a fairly typical day of my life when classes are in session. A day in my life in Rennes is completely different than a day in my life at Wofford or at home in Spartanburg. It has been so interesting and valuable for me to experience a different way of living. I have gained a new found appreciation for public transportation, although I have to admit that I miss driving a little! I also walk a lot more here. The cities in France tend to be far more walkable. One thing that is especially different about this experience is that I actually live alone. That is definitely a new experience for me, and it is one that has been good in certain ways, but also that has aspects that I will not miss. 

Because of covid, my experience has been different than most student’s study abroad experiences. It wasn’t exactly what I imagined when I originally decided to study abroad, but it has been worthwhile nonetheless. 

The muffin from my lunch
Views from a walk I took on a day when it had snowed
Downtown Rennes in an area where I walk almost everyday
A public park. I like to sit here and sometimes eat lunch here.

Bon Appétit and Cultural Differences

Since I’ve been in France, I’ve eaten a lot of meals outside. During one of my first days here, I was sitting on a bench downtown and eating lunch with a friend from my program. A man passed by us and said, “bon appétit!” I was confused. In the first weeks of our program, we had been repeatedly told that French people rarely greet strangers in public, and that it would be strange to do so. And yet, shortly after the first man passed by, another person passed us and said “bon appétit” again. This happened on multiple occasions. After talking to a few different people about it, I realized that this was not uncommon. Saying “bon appétit” to someone eating similar to, in America, saying “bless you,” when someone sneezes. Before COVID, the phenomenon of saying “bon appétit” on the street may not have happened as much (because people typically ate in cafés), but now it has become commonplace. I still feel a little startled whenever a stranger tells me, “bon appétit,” though!

In America, it feels like only thing closed on Sunday is Chick-Fil-A. (In fact, it’s such a rarity that someone actually wrote a song about it.) In France, almost everything is closed on Sunday. I learned that the hard way when, during my second week here, I planned to go to the grocery store on a Sunday afternoon. I took the bus, and when I got there, the store was closed. Using my phone, I Googled the closest open grocery store only to find that they were almost all closed! I couldn’t believe it! Even the busses and metros run less frequently on Sunday. Many stores, and smaller shops especially, also close for an hour or two for a lunch break during weekday afternoons. Now, if I know that I need to go to a specific store, I’m sure to look at the hours before hand. I was also struck by the fact that my program gives us three full weeks of vacation time. During a normal spring semester in the US, I can only remember getting a week of spring break and a couple of long weekends. Here in France, there is a much greater emphasis placed on time off, whether that be for lunch, on Sundays, or for vacation periods. Even though it can be frustrating when places I want to go are closed, I appreciate this aspect of the French culture. It’s a welcome difference from the American “work ethic,” and I think that we, as Americans, could benefit from taking a page out of France’s book when it comes to time off from work and relaxation.

It snowed in Rennes last week, and this snowman from the Parc du Thabor perfectly embodies French stereotypes.

Finally, the French love strikes and protests. I knew about this before coming to France, so I wasn’t too surprised. However, I was a little taken aback by just how common these really are. Every weekend, I get an Alert Traveler notification about a protest or strike happening in France. One day, I actually walked by a protest happening in the street! Given the frequency of protests, it’s very common to see posters related to the subjects of the protests posted in public places. I always like to read these posters because I feel like they give a unique insight into current events. I read one recently regarding a protest trying to prevent the destruction of a natural park, and another one in favor of the French Communist Party.

These posters are advocating for the Community Party of France and criticizing the integration of capitalism with the pandemic. This was located near a busy bus stop.

Before coming to France, I kept hearing about culture shock. I almost expected to be shocked, in one way or another, but the culture. But to me surprise, I wasn’t— at all. Maybe I had just mentally prepared myself for differences, but overall, I felt that cultural differences were typically minor, and while sometimes surprising, they were far from shocking. French culture and American culture are similar in many ways, though there are certainly differences. Overall, it’s not the big things that surprise me, but rather smaller aspects of the culture of daily life. Whether that be the closing of stores for lunch, or people saying “bon appétit,” every day offers me a new chance to uncover little aspects of the culture. To me, experiencing these everyday cultural differences is a true learning experience, and whenever I encounter them, they make me reflect on how my own culture and ways of thinking differ from those of other people.

Eating a sandwich outdoors while overlooking the Seine (a perfect opportunity for a stranger to tell me bon appétit).

Travel in the Time of Covid

A view of the Rennes Opera House and the nearby carousel

Studying abroad has been a goal of mine since before I was even in college. I studied French for 4 years in high school and then chose it as one of my majors in college, and given how much time and effort I had put into learning French, I was eager to actually visit France. Even before COVID, the thought of studying abroad was exciting, but it also made me nervous. However, last Spring, just after I had been accepted to my first study abroad program, COVID-19 hit. In June, my first program was canceled and I deferred my study abroad to Spring 2021. In October, IES called me during a Zoom class and I found out my program had been cancelled again. I reapplied to the IES Nantes program that same day, and before the end of October, that program had been canceled as well. On Halloween, I applied to CIEE Rennes Liberal Arts, the program with which I am studying now. 

There were so many considerations and so much stress that went into simply finding programs that were running, applying to those programs, and waiting to hear whether they would be canceled. Deciding to travel abroad during COVID wasn’t something I took lightly, and it took a lot of careful thought before I felt comfortable with it and the implications it would have for my experience. By the time I realized that my current program was going to run and that I was actually going to get to study abroad, the whole experience felt surreal. Leaving was hard in many ways. I had the typical worries, and I knew that I would miss my friends and family back home so much. On top of that, the situation with COVID was (and is) ever-changing, and that was constantly on my mind. 

After having two COVID tests and filling out paperwork, I was finally cleared for international travel. Though I have had the opportunity to travel internationally before, I have never traveled as far as Europe. As my flight approached the Paris airport, passengers were provided with a breakfast. Eating breakfast at what was essentially, for me, 1:30 am, felt strange. I spent time in the Paris airport before boarding a short flight to Rennes. After arriving in Rennes, we took taxis to our studio apartments and then went on a walk around the neighborhood before beginning six day period of limited contact. Seeing everything at once and having so many questions was overwhelming. Because of Covid, the first week of my program orientation took place online. The first few days of the program were difficult, but things started to get better on the third day when I went to a market with a girl from my program and bought a crepe. Sitting outside and doing something that felt so essentially “French” was enjoyable, and I started to feel better. 

Now, as I begin my fourth week of the program, things are okay. On one hand, I probably chose the worst time to study abroad in recent history. Every day, I hear talk of whether or not there will be a third lockdown (no answer yet!). Many aspects of travel that I enjoy, such as eating at restaurants and visiting museums, are not yet possible. At the same time, I have found ways to enjoy what I can do. This is my first time seeing Europe, and the old architecture is amazing. Despite COVID, I have seen so many things that I never would have back home. 

The flight to Paris
I was excited to try French food and I got lunch at this street-side stand five days in a row. They had so many choices!